How To Store Snowblower In Garage
To successfully store a snowblower in a garage, follow these four steps:
- Add gas stabilizer
- Wash and dry machine
- Spray with Teflon coating
- Oil cylinder and close valves
In this post you’ll learn the correct way to store a snowblower, including a mechanics top tip for trouble free winter performance.
Vented Gas Cap
In Door Snowblower Storage
Storage indoors extends the life of a machine, I work on lots of different machines and I can always tell a machine that lives indoors.
Outdoor kit isn’t pleasant to work on, there’s always an extra layer of work when working on the out door blower. Rusted bolts, seized components, the fun never stops.
You have the right idea, park all your kit indoors, it will save a ton on maintenance, machines that live indoors are more reliable and will live longer.
In addition consider purchasing a breathable cover, breathable is important as moisture trapped on the blower needs to escape
Consider also parking your blower on a large rubber mat, the benefits are twofold, keeps the garage floor clean and dry during the On season and helps prevent flat spotting of the tires during the Off season.
Winged & Threaded caps
Add Gas Stabilizer To Snowblower
My number one tip for trouble free winter performance is use a Gas stabilizer in your snowblower fuel system. Ethanol, also known as blended fuel, isn’t suitable for small engines. Snowblowers, unlike cars, are open to atmosphere fuel systems.
That means air can enter the gas tank and vapors can leave. Where ethanol is concerned that’s a problem. Ethanol attracts moisture and that moisture collects in the carburetor bowl, often resulting in corrosion.
And that’s not all, the alcohol content evaporates often leaving a gum deposit inside the carburetor, blocking sensitive jets and passages.
And yet more bad news, ethanol is harmful to rubber and plastic components of the fuel system too. It prematurely breaks them down.
Now the good news, using gas stabilizer will neutralize all the negative effects of blended gas for up to two years. You are welcome!
You can check out the stabilizer I recommend here on the “Snowblower maintenance tools page”.
Vented gas caps
How to use gas stabilizer
I use a brand called Sta-Bil gas stabilizer, they recommend mixing a half ounce (tablespoon) of stabilizer to one gallon of gas. I empty the measure into a gallon of fresh gas and shake it to mix.
I add the mixed gas to the gas tank, (tank should be low). I then run the engine for a few minutes to ensure the mixture makes its way to the carburetor.
Preventive maintenance doesn’t get any easier than that. Fuel system is now protected from gumming and stale gas for up to two years.
Wash & Dry Snowblower
Power washing the blower body thoroughly at the end of the season is important, otherwise salt and grit may attract the body work while in storage. Rusted out fasteners are common especially at the bottom end of the body where salt, grit and moisture collects.
I like to use anti-seize on any body bolts I remove during maintenance, you’ll be glad you did this in years to come, cutting out bolts isn’t fun.
The wheels in particular like to rust to the shaft, if your blower is still young, go ahead and remove them and add a little grease.
I like to use Fluid Film on the metal work around the bin and under the belly pan, helps slow down the effects of rust.
You can find the Fluid film I recommend here on The “Snowblower maintenance tools page”.
Teflon Coat Chute
I like to coat inside the chute, auger, blower and inside bin to help reduce sticking snow. It works for a time and then needs recoating.
I also like to coat the engine with Dupont Teflon coating, which helps keep moisture out during the storage season.
I spray WD40 into the cable outers, I spray at the top of the cable and let gravity help drive out any trapped moisture, also prevents sticking cables.
Oil Cylinder & Close Valves
A sticking valve isn’t uncommon after the storage season. The symptom is a very fast crank and a no start. It’s a pretty easy problem to solve but it does require removing the valve cover.
The open valve allows moisture to enter, sometimes causing particulates of corrosion to form on the valve stem resulting in a sticking valve. In addition corrosion can also form on the cylinder bore itself.
You can avoid this potential problem by lubing the cylinder and setting the engine so as to close the valves prior to storage. It’s not a difficult or time consuming task, it goes like this:
- Remove spark plug
- Add cap full of engine oil to engine – (prevents corrosion on bore)Place and hold blunt object (pencil) into the cylinder against the piston crown
- Rotate the engine clockwise by hand
- When the pencil is furthest from the cylinder the valves are closed
- Replace spark plug
Snowblower battery care
I know not all snowblowers have a battery, some are pull cord and others use house power to boost start the motor. But those blowers that have a battery fitted will need some extra love.
A battery maintainer also known as a smart charger is a great investment. Batteries hate being idle, and when they discharge completely they often can’t be saved.
The solution is the smart charger, it remains connected to the battery in the off season and on if desired. The charger senses the battery state of health and only offers charge when needed. They are safe to leave plugged in and use very little power.
Check out the smart charger I recommend here on the “Snowblower maintenance tools page”.
Our furry friends love to live inside machinery, some great hiding places with a snack too. Mince in particular love wiring insulation. There isn’t a ton of wiring on a snowblower but the wiring is mission critical to starting the machine.
The belly pan (between wheels) is the favored hiding hole, add some bait pellets around the machine over the summer months.
Maintenance & Tune-up
Consider performing a tune-up before storage, doing it now is better than freezing your knacks off at the start of the snow season.
A tune-up isn’t difficult and won’t take but a couple hours, max. Here’s a what a typical tune-up might look like:
- Change oil
- Change spark plug
- Clean air filter (if fitted)Drain carburetor gas bowl
- Change gas filter
- Lube, test and adjust all controls as needed
- Check battery and terminals are clean and tight (if fitted) or check boost plug
- Check drive belt and auger belt
- Check auger and shear pins for damage/play
- Check auger box and add low temp grease (00) as required
- Remove belly pan and clean drive friction plate
- Lightly grease gear selector axle
- Add white grease to drive chains/gears
- Adjust tire pressures
Don’t forget to use gas stabilizer, it will save you money.