A Power washer is such a labor-saving tool. I use it in the workshop to clean down equipment, quads, dirt bikes, mowers, and I use it to clean the workshop floor. It’s a tool I can’t be without. But power washers need a little love too, and this page is dedicated to just that.
On this page, you’ll find a list of tools, supplies, spare parts, videos, links to articles to help keep your wash in great shape
Some of the pictures on this page link to Amazon.com where you can check the price and delivery of products. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Sta-bil pump protector protects your pump from freezing during winter months of storage. This mighty little can could save you a small fortune. Picture links to Amazon.com.
You should of course check your owner’s manual for the pump oil grade recommended by your manufacturer. Simpson knows a thing or two about pumps and so I use their oil. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Replacement Vertical 7/8 shaft pump for gas-powered engines. Easy to fit and commonly fitted to Honda, Homelite, Briggs, Ryobi, Troy Bilt, Craftsman, etc. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Briggs & Stratton 5W30 Synthetic engine oil, specially formulated for small engines. This size is more than enough for an oil change. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Before we can do anything, we’ll need tools. I’ve selected this set as I own some Craftsman tools and while I have broken them, they did do a lot of work. So I expect this set will last the occasional user quite a long time. This set carries both metric and standard sockets and that’s important because some kit will have both types of fastener sizes. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Fueling System Tools
A fueling system fault, hands down is one of the most common Power washer faults. The reasons are simple, carburetors are small and block up with crap easily. The second reason, people (including me) forget to use a fuel stabilizer before storing small engine kit. (Stabilizer keeps gas fresh).
Cleaning the fueling system in most cases fixes the problem. Check this post out, “Carburetor cleaning”, but sometimes you’ll need to bite the bullet and fit a new carburetor. Check out the “Carburetor cleaning video” here.
Anyway, here’s a list of the tools you’ll find really helpful if you are troubleshooting your fueling system.
Stabil Fuel Stabilizer
Mix this with the gas when winterizing your small engine. Gas isn’t what it used to be, it goes stale, in some cases after just one month. Bad gas causes gumming and that’s a carburetor killer. A stabilizer will save you money and stress in the long run. Picture links to Amazon.com. Check out “Adding stabilizer video” here.
When cleaning your carburetor you’ll need this stuff. Gumming is a sticky substance that’s hard to shift. The carb cleaner will remove it, however, if your carb is really bad, save yourself some work, go ahead and buy a new carburetor. Picture links to Amazon.com.
You’ll find this tool really useful if you need to drain the gas tank, and you will if the gas is stale. The siphon will remove it without fuss or mess and it can be used for extracting the oil too. Picture links to Amazon.com
Fuel Line Clamp
Some small engines will have a gas tap, which is really handy when removing the carburetor, stops gas flowing all over the shop. However most engines won’t have one, these useful clamps simply squeeze the fuel line and prevent a spill while you perform surgery. Picture links to Amazon.com.
You’ll find these nylon brushes super useful when it comes time to clean those tiny passageways of the carburetor and jet. Use these in conjunction with the WD Carb cleaner. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Ignition system tools
The ignition system of all small engines gives plenty of trouble, after the fueling system it’s the next most likely area to fail. Checking for spark is often the very first test we do. Check out this video “How to check spark”.
Common problems include:
- Plug dirty
- Plug gap off
- Armature/Coil failure
- Broken flywheel key
The kind of tools we’ll need when working on an ignition system range from spark testing to measuring tools. I’ll list the most common tools together with what they do and a link to Amazon.
This tool is used to check both the spark plug and the coil for spark. Sure you can check the spark without the tool, but it’s not as good, the tool is designed to stress the whole ignition system. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Spark Plug Gapper
This tool isn’t strictly necessary if you have a feeler gauge, but it’s a lot easier to handle. If you haven’t guessed, you use this tool to check the gap of your spark plug, a simple effective tool. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Fly Wheel Puller
Now, this tool is a must-have if you’re removing the flywheel. Why would want to remove the flywheel? Sometimes the flywheel key shears, it stops your engine from starting. The key is really cheap and it’s easy to fix when you’ve got this tool. Picture links to Amazon.com.
Every home needs a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter). It’s used to check for continuity in wiring, and for voltage when there’s a battery fitted. But don’t use this tool to check spark, that will kill it. I use mine every day. I have the previous model to this and it’s still doing its job. Picture links to Amazon.com.
I like the Cartman boosters, they stay flexible even in low temperatures. They have double grip clamps and the set is guaranteed for 5 years. Picture links to Amazon.com.
This is a clever battery charger, plug it in, attach to your battery, and forget it. After it finishes charging, it trickle charges and it’s safe to leave it on all winter. Picture links to Amazon.com. Picture links to Amazon.com.
If you’re reading this section, you might have a more serious problem. But it doesn’t mean you can’t fix it. Small engines are really simple, they need 3 things:
- Gas/air mix
This tool will test compression, which in turn will help you identify common issues like head gasket failure, sticking valves, or worn/broken piston rings. Modern engines use a compression release valve which helps them start. Trouble is, a compression release valve will give you incorrect compression test readings. Check out “Compression test video” on this page, slide down to the second from the last video.
So if your engine was made in the last 15 years or so, you’ll need the leak-down tester. It allows you accurately measure pressure loss in the cylinder (you’ll need access to compressed air). But more importantly, it allows you to listen for the tell-tale leaking of air.
Air from the dipstick indicates a broken or worn rings.
Air leaking from exhaust/muffler suggests an exhaust valve issue.
Air leaking from the carburetor suggests an intake valve fault.
Air from the cylinder head suggests a head gasket fault.
This is a compression tester, it’s fitted in the plug hole using the adaptor. The engine is cranked over and reading of how much compression the cylinder makes is captured on the gauge. A low reading can be caused by a simple fault such as a sticking valve. Picture links to Amazon.com.
The OTC is a quality kit and will last many years of use. A leak-down tester will require compressed air. The tester measures how much air escapes a cylinder and helps you find weak rings, valves head gaskets, etc. Picture links to Amazon.com.
The ABN 26 blade feeler gauge set is marked in SAE and metric. You’ll need this set to adjust valve lash and is useful when setting armature/coil air gap. You can also use it to gap spark plugs. Picture links to Amazon.com.