Short on time and short on space? Raised beds are brilliant for taking the stress out of veg gardening — less digging, fewer weeds, and a far more profess setup overall. But the thing is: even the best-looking beds can underperform if the layout isn’t right.

A smart layout can mean the difference between a thriving patch and a tangled mess.
It affects everything — how much you can grow, how easily you can water, and how much bending and weeding you’ll actually have to do.
That’s why I’ve pulled together my three favorite raised bed layouts — tried, tested, and friendly for beginners (and busy types). You’ll also find a free printable planner at the end of this post to help map out your own space. It’s the same layout sheet I use when sketching out our beds in spring.
We’ll cover grid planting, companion strip planting, and one of my personal favorites — the L-shaped bed that turned a dead corner in our garden into a strawberry-filled haven. Let’s get started
Layout 1 – The Classic Grid (Best for Beginners)
This one’s a firm favourite of raised bed gardening — neat, tidy, and almost foolproof. It’s called the Classic Grid, and it’s based on the square-foot gardening method.
You divide your bed into 1×1 foot sections — like a chessboard. Each square gets its own crop, depending on how much space it needs. Lettuce? One per square. Radishes? You can squeeze in sixteen. Tomatoes? Give them four.

What I love about this layout is how easy it makes planning — especially if you’re a visual thinker like me.
You can glance at your bed and know exactly what’s going where, which means less time second-guessing and more time pottering around with a cup of tea.
The grid layout works best with square or rectangular beds like 4×4 or 4×6. Just pop in some nails around the frame and run string to mark out the squares — or grab a pack of cheap garden stakes and make little bamboo frames.
Best for planting:
- Leafy greens
- Carrots
- Spring onions
- Beans
- Compact herbs like basil or chives
It’s tidy. It’s flexible. And it’s just plain satisfying.
Layout 2 – The Companion Strip (Best for Mixed Planting)
This one’s for those of you who like to mix and match. Instead of planting in little boxes, you plant in long strips — rows that run the full length of your raised bed. Think 4×8 or 3×6 size beds. Clean lines, easy access, and ideal if you’re into companion planting.
The real win here is planting veg that get along well — tomatoes and basil, carrots and onions, lettuces and marigolds. They help each other grow, confuse pests, and just look better side by side.
The layout makes crop rotation easier too. Once the season’s over, just shift the strip’s job — where your beans were, plant your greens. No need to overthink it.
Rogan helped me build our first long raised bed — mainly because he owed me for “borrowing” the last of my good secateurs for one of his archery mods. His engineering brain kicks in anytime there’s a straight line involved, so the strips came out military-grade straight.
Strip Layout Tips:
- Keep taller crops to the north side (to avoid shading the rest)
- Use 3 or 4 strips across the bed depending on width
- Make paths between strips with mulch or stone if your beds are wide enough
- Mulch between the rows to cut down on watering and weeding
Great companions for this layout:
- Tomatoes + Basil
- Carrots + Onions
- Beans + Marigolds
- Lettuce + Chives
- Peas + Spinach
If you’re growing for the kitchen and want good flavour, better pest resistance, and less mess, this layout ticks all the boxes.
Layout 3 – The Lazy L-Shaped Bed (Perfect for Corners & Curves)
Not every garden gives you a perfect rectangle to work with — and that’s where the L-shaped layout shines. If you’ve got an awkward corner, a fence line, or a bend in a path that feels underused, this layout turns it into a productive, good-looking growing space.

The L-shape works brilliantly in small gardens or as a wraparound border to a patio or seating area.
Each “arm” of the bed gives you a separate growing zone — one side for herbs, the other for strawberries, flowers, or salad greens.
When we lived in Saskatchewan, I turned an empty corner near the back deck into a little L-shaped bed filled with thyme, strawberries, and marigolds. It was nothing fancy — just brick edging and some decent compost. But it became one of my favourite spots, and I could water it while waiting for my tea to brew.
Tips for L-Beds:
- Keep each arm no wider than 2–3 feet so you can reach everything without stepping in
- Use edging materials that suit your style — brick, timber, or even corrugated metal
- Position taller crops or a small trellis at the inside corner
- Consider semi-permanent crops (herbs, strawberries) so you don’t replant constantly
What Grows Well Here?
- Strawberries along one leg
- Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage
- Lettuce and spinach in the shadier spots
- Dwarf tomatoes or nasturtiums for a little colour and height
This layout isn’t just practical — it’s pretty. A thoughtful L-shape draws the eye, fills unused space, and adds a sense of structure, especially near paths or patios.
Vertical Add-ons to Boost Yield (Without Sacrificing Space)
Once you’ve got your layout sorted, it’s time to look upward. Vertical growing is one of the simplest ways to get more from your raised bed without adding extra beds — ideal if you’re working with a small space or just want to keep things tidy.
By training crops to grow vertically, you open up space below for smaller, shade-tolerant plants. It also improves airflow, helps prevent disease, and keeps fruit off the soil. In short: it’s a gentle nudge toward a more efficient and elegant garden.
We’ve added trellises in a few corners of the garden over the years. One sits just behind the tiny house where we host Airbnb guests — it started as a structure to support sugar snap peas, but it’s now something of a green curtain through spring and early summer. Not planned, but very welcome.
Vertical Ideas That Work Beautifully in Raised Beds:
- Trellis on the north side: Best for climbing crops like peas, pole beans, or cucumbers. Placing them on the north side helps avoid shading smaller plants.
- A-frame or teepee supports: Great for kids to help build, and charming to look at. Perfect for peas, beans, or even mini pumpkins.
- String or wire guides: Secure a few vertical strings from a simple crossbar and you’ve got an easy climbing system for tomatoes or vining squash.
- Hanging baskets: Hook them to posts at the bed’s corners — ideal for strawberries, nasturtiums, or trailing herbs.
- Grow towers or stackable planters: Brilliant for patios or when space is especially tight. Herbs and leafy greens do well here.
You don’t need much — a few canes, a ball of string, or an old ladder can become the backbone of a vertical garden. And the result is more than just extra harvests; it brings height, movement, and a sense of structure that helps the whole bed feel more complete.
Tool Spotlight: Foldable A-Frame Trellis
If you’d rather not build your own trellis from scratch, we’ve used this foldable A-frame trellis in a few of our beds.
It’s sturdy, stores flat, and fits right into a raised bed — ideal for climbing beans, peas, and even small cucumbers.
(Affiliate link – it won’t cost you extra, but it helps support the site. Thank you!)
Let’s Keep Growing – Together
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Grab Your Free Planner & Start Sketching
Planning a raised bed doesn’t need to be complicated — but putting pencil to paper can save you time, effort, and a few mid-season regrets.
That’s why I’ve made a free printable planner to help you sketch out your layout before you plant. It includes:
- Blank grid templates for 4×4, 4×8, and L-shaped beds
- A simple companion planting cheat sheet
- Space for notes on crop rotation and seasonal plans
- A quick-reference spacing guide for popular veg
This planner keeps things simple and flexible — whether you’re just getting started or looking to fine-tune your garden for better yields.
Tip: I like to print a few copies and clip them to the fridge. That way, when I get a new seed packet or spot something interesting online, I’ve got a place to jot it down.

Click here to download your free Raised Bed Planner
It’s completely free — and it’s the same one I use when planning our own garden here in Virginia. I hope it helps you turn your space, however small or unusual, into something productive and peaceful.
FAQs
Q: What’s the best size for a raised bed?
A 4×8 foot bed is a popular choice — big enough for variety, small enough to manage. If space is tight, even a 3×3 can produce plenty.
Q: Can I mix herbs and vegetables in one bed?
Absolutely. Just give each plant the space and sunlight it needs. Basil with tomatoes, or thyme along the edges, are great combos.
Q: How deep should my bed be?
10–12 inches is ideal for most veg. If you’re growing carrots, potatoes, or parsnips, aim for 12–18 inches.
Q: What should I use to fill my bed?
A mix of compost, topsoil, and something for drainage like leaf mold or rotted wood works well. We make our own mix and top it up yearly.
Q: Can I build a bed directly on grass?
Yes. Lay down cardboard first to block weeds, then build on top. The cardboard breaks down and feeds the soil below.
Raised beds take some effort upfront, but the payoff is worth it — healthier plants, less bending, and a space that feels organised and rewarding. I hope these layout ideas and the printable planner help make your garden easier to manage and more enjoyable to grow.
If you’re just getting started — don’t worry about doing it all at once. Even one well-planned bed can give you fresh food, a sense of calm, and a reason to step outside with a cuppa.
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See you in the garden,
—Tara 🌿